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A&E | February 26, 2020

Formulate a full face without failure

The arrows shadowed on the left face chart show the directions tight skin ‘pulls’ when dry. The shaded area on the right face chart signifies the blotches of oil on the face for oily skin.

“Cake face”, when a face looks like it has clumps of makeup, is one of the worst problems makeup users tackle when completing a full look.            

Figuring out what skin type you have is a great place to start when tackling “cakiness.”

Not everyone is a beauty artist, but you can be skilled when it comes to working with products that are fit for your face.

The spectrum for skin types is really dry, dry, normal, oily, really oily, or a combination of both oily and dry.

If your skin feels tight or flaky, you probably have dry skin. A shine on your nose, forehead, cheeks or chin means you most likely have oily skin.

Along with identifying your skin type, understanding what products you put on your face and if they are beneficial in your makeup process is key.

If you think of makeup in layers, face primer is the base layer to help everything and keep it in place.

Primer is necessary because just using a moisturizer is not going to support your foundation, face primers are made specifically to help makeup stay put.

Depending on if your skin is oily or dry, you should use distinct face primers. Dry skin types should use a hydrating face primer, while oily skin needs a matte primer or a pore-filler face primer.

If you have oily skin and use a hydrating primer, the foundation is going to melt off your face. This is because the ingredients usually include glycerin, coconut water or a variety of oils.

If you have dry skin, using a mattifying primer will cause cracks on the face, dry flakes and intensified fine lines.

Choosing your foundation finish is the next step. It can range from light to full coverage and have matte or dewy texture finishes.

Those with oily skin should use a matte finish and for dry skin, a luminous finish will work best. The matte foundation will work in conjunction with the mattifying primer and stop naturally-secreted face oils from reaching the surface of your makeup. A hydrating primer and radiant foundation will transform dry skin into a smoothed and moisturized finish.

If you have dry skin but like a matte finish, you can set your radiant foundation lightly with a face powder or use a demi-matte finish foundation, which is a less extreme alternative foundation.

For someone who has oily skin but wants the fresh dewy finish, add a liquid highlighter to a matte foundation and mix it together.

Highlight is a product that creates a high-shine on the face and produces a wet look. It comes in various versions such as powder, liquid or cream.

This will maintain the consistency of the matte foundation while adding a luminous effect to achieve a glowing look.

As for coverage, any finish will work for all skin types; preference dictates your foundation look.

Light to medium foundation coverage creates a natural look, medium to full coverage will cover everything including redness, blemishes and scarring.

Using too much full-coverage foundation is what causes the “cakey” look – something you want to avoid.

If you are using foundation to cover acne, remember that it is used

to cover the face, not make blemishes disappear.

Having a good skin care routine to fit your needs will help the end result look more airbrushed.

You can always visit a dermatologist to help find products for you specifically.

Taking care of your skin, knowing what your skin needs and educating yourself will improve the outcome of your finished makeup look.